India, Part 1: From Bollywood Dreams to the Golden Temple

I grew up on Bollywood movies. The songs, the colours, the drama, the food on every table... India always felt familiar to me long before I had ever set foot there. So in March 2009, when I finally landed in Mumbai, it felt less like visiting somewhere new and more like stepping into a film I had watched a hundred times.

And here is the honest truth: real life was better.

This was an eight-week journey with my parents, and it is one I will cherish for the rest of my life. It is also the trip that taught me what makes India special, and how to plan it so you see the real country, comfortably and without the stress.

This is Part 1. I did go back to India again, and I'll share that trip in Part 2.

One thing I'll say before we start: if you love history and culture, India is endless. Even eight weeks may not feel like enough. But don't worry, at the end of this post I'll show you how to fit the very best of it into two weeks.

Mumbai: where it all began

Mumbai (which many of us still call Bombay) is where my mother was born, so arriving there felt special from the very first moment. A chauffeur collected us from the airport and took us to the Kings International Hotel in Juhu.

Juhu is Bollywood territory. Many of the film stars have their homes in this part of the city, and you can feel it. Even so, I didn't see a single star... until my mum asked the hotel owner if she could meet Dharmendra.

To our amazement, the hotel owner arranged it! We were driven to Dharmendra's house, and he welcomed us in with open arms, which, I came to learn, is exactly how people are in India. We spent an hour or so chatting, first about all his films, and then he wanted to know all about us: where we were from and what we do. No photos were allowed, but honestly, I didn't need one. Dharmendra was the most down-to-earth gentleman, and it is a memory I will never forget.

After landing, we relaxed, had a good breakfast, and then went straight out to explore.

• Elephanta Caves: a short ferry ride from the Gateway of India takes you to Elephanta Island, where ancient temples have been carved straight into the rock. The giant three-faced Shiva sculpture is unforgettable.
• The Prince of Wales Museum: now officially called the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, this is Mumbai's main museum, in the heart of South Mumbai right next to the Gateway of India. The building itself is stunning, built in the Indo-Saracenic style, a mix of Indian, Islamic and European architecture.
• Marine Drive: every evening we walked along Marine Drive as the sun went down and the lights came on along the bay. Then it was off to the shopping malls!

Mumbai is vibrant, modern and surprisingly western in many ways, and at the same time completely, unmistakably Indian. We stayed six nights before flying on to Delhi.

Delhi: history on every corner

In Delhi we stayed at The Oberoi for five nights, and we visited the city's great landmarks:

• India Gate: the grand war memorial at the heart of New Delhi
• Qutub Minar: a soaring tower of red sandstone, over 800 years old
• Humayun's Tomb: a beautiful Mughal garden tomb, often called the inspiration for the Taj Mahal
• Chandni Chowk: the busy, colourful lanes of Old Delhi, full of spices, fabrics and street food

To be honest, a lot of our time in Delhi was spent enjoying the shopping, including the high-end shops at Khan Market, and meeting people from all kinds of backgrounds.

That was thanks to my father. He loved history, culture, philosophy and science, and he would talk to anyone he met. His first question was usually: "Where is the nearest bookshop?" Shopping was not really his thing, but books always were!

Agra: the Taj Mahal at sunrise

Nothing prepares you for the Taj Mahal. We went at sunrise, when the white marble slowly turns soft pink and gold, and it was every bit as magical as I had imagined.

Emperor Shah Jahan built the Taj Mahal in memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their child in 1631. Knowing that story while you stand in front of it makes it even more moving.

Jaipur: the Pink City

From Agra we went on to Jaipur, and stayed at the wonderful Rambagh Palace, a real palace hotel and one of the most beautiful places I have ever stayed.

We stayed around five to six nights in each place, which gave us time to explore properly without rushing.

Amritsar: the most breathtaking arrival

From Jaipur we took an evening flight to Amritsar, and I will never forget it. As we came in to land, the pilot announced: "Please look out of the window on your right." And there it was: the Golden Temple, all lit up, glowing in the dark. It was breathtaking.

We stayed at Ranjit's Svaasa, and we also stayed at the Golden Temple itself for two nights, to really experience it.

I took a dip in the Amrit Sarovar, the holy pool around the temple, and I prayed. And my wish came true.

The Golden Temple is open 24 hours a day, and its free community kitchen (the langar) feeds everyone who comes through the door: around 100,000 people every day. It doesn't matter what your faith or religion is, or how rich or poor you are. Everyone sits together and everyone is fed. It is one of the most humbling things I have ever seen.

Amritsar is a beautiful mix of the spiritual, the historical and the cultural, and it stayed with me long after we left. Most people visiting India never make it here, and they are missing one of the most moving places in the world.

Back to Mumbai

We spent our final week back in Mumbai, which felt like coming full circle.

The food: what can I say?

I love my food, and India did not disappoint! Throughout the trip I didn't eat meat. I wanted to live and eat like the local people, and honestly, I didn't miss it at all. India is a dream for vegetarians.

Even though we stayed in lovely hotels, I made a point of eating food from outside too, to experience the real, authentic taste. Some of my favourites:

• Masala dosa
• Vada pav: Mumbai's famous spicy potato burger
• Pav bhaji
• Bombay sandwich
• Chole bhature

The people

The thing I treasure most from this trip is the people. Because my dad would chat to absolutely everyone, from cleaners and shopkeepers to businessmen, I learned so much about how people live, their culture and their religion. Every conversation taught me something.

India is also a country of great contrasts, and I want to be honest about that. In many of the places we visited, I saw a lot of poverty, and it was hard to see. Some moments have stayed with me ever since. It made me deeply grateful for what I have, and it made the warmth and generosity of the people I met, so often from those with the least, even more humbling. It's also why the langar at the Golden Temple, where everyone is fed for free whoever they are, touched me so much.

Travelling with my father was a gift. His curiosity, his love of books and his way of making friends wherever he went turned an amazing trip into something truly special, and those memories are the ones I treasure most.

My favourite place?

I honestly don't have one. Every place was beautiful in its own way, and so were the people.

Why plan India with me?

India is incredible, but it can also feel overwhelming the first time. Where do you stay? How do you get between cities? Which guide can you trust? That's exactly where I come in.

• I've been there. This isn't a brochure. These are places I have walked, eaten in and fallen in love with.
• Family roots. My mother was born in Mumbai, and India has always been part of my story.
• Trusted local partners on the ground, so you're looked after everywhere you go.
• Travel your way. Couples, families, groups or solo, whether it's a palace hotel or a spiritual journey, I tailor every detail.
• One person to talk to, from your first idea to the moment you're home.

When is the best time to visit India?

For Mumbai, Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and Amritsar, the best time is October to March, when the days are warm and dry. I travelled in March and it was lovely. April to June gets very hot, and June to September is monsoon season.

Palace hotels and the best guides book up early for the winter season, so I recommend starting your plans at least 3–6 months ahead.